What are Novato and San Rafael?
The two largest and Northern-most cities in Marin County, Novato and San Rafael offer two of the county’s best culinary and cultural experiences.
San Rafael is the capital of Marin County and is home to the Civic Center, a large, futuristic-looking government building designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. Its downtown is also home to one of California’s historic missions dating back to the region’s Spanish history in the early 1800s. Downtown San Rafael is a bustling, walkable urban center with lots of pleasant restaurants, bars, and shops. Further outside the center are nice coastal escapes with trails for hiking and mountain biking as well as areas for swimming in the bay. With over 60,000 residents, San Rafael has plenty to keep visitors entertained and is a crucial hub of Marin.
Novato, though slightly smaller than San Rafael with 53,000 residents, is geographically the largest town in Marin. It is also home to some of the County’s best nature and offers a unique blend of uppity Marin culture with a more relaxed, countryside lifestyle. In recent years, Novato has also assembled the best culinary scene in Marin. It is more affordable and less pretentious than cities in Southern Marin and offers a friendly, welcoming atmosphere. It’s slogan, after all: Novato, where the fun starts.
San Rafael
Mission San Rafael Arcángel
The crown-jewel of the San Rafael skyline and one of the most interesting historical sites in Marin, Mission San Rafael is a good place to start for those interested in the county’s history. Founded in 1817, the mission was originally created by Spanish settlers to treat sick indigenous people. It was abandoned for most of the 1800s and fell into disrepair despite serving various purposes throughout the century, including as headquarters for John C. Fremont during the Bear Flag Revolt. The buildings were rebuilt and in the early 1900s on the same site, resulting in what you see today when you visit.
Marin County Civic Center
Another unique Marin building, the Civic Center serves as the headquarters for the county government. Designed by Frank Lloyd Wright and completed in 1962, the building was Wright’s largest public project and its interior is as fascinating as its exterior. If the building looks familiar, you might have seen it before. Owing to its unique, futuristic appeal, it was the filming location for much of the movie Gattica, and was also featured briefly in the Eminem music video for “I Need a Doctor.” Fortunately, you do not have to work for the county to pay the building a visit. Docent led tours are held every Friday at 10:30 a.m. (see this link), and anyone can roam the building’s vast halls during operating hours.
China Camp and McNear’s Beach
Both bayside retreats in San Rafael, China Camp and McNear’s beach are great options for a day away from the city. Of the two, McNear’s beach is better for a picnic and China Camp for adventure. McNear’s beach is essentially a public park (you pay to get in) that includes a beach, tennis and volleyball courts, a pool, picnic areas and barbecues, a fishing pier, and just about everything else you could wish for. It is a good place for families to spend the day, or an equally good option for a bit of relaxation close to downtown San Rafael.
China Camp, on the other hand, is a state park and less developed than McNear’s. It is better known for its hiking and mountain biking trails, and has a history of Chinese settlement. Today, the area is designated as a state park with protected trails and a tranquil beach.
Sol Food
If you have time for only one meal in Marin, go to Sol Food. If you have time for only two, go to Sol Food twice. Probably the most beloved restaurant in Marin, Sol Food serves up a creative, fresh menu of delicious Puerto Rican food. Don’t believe me? Puerto Rican singer Bad Bunny once took a group of 80 people to restaurant while on tour in the area. With its notable lime green exterior and constant line out the door, Sol Food is a can’t miss spot. It is hard to go wrong when ordering, but nearly everyone I know goes with the Bistec sandwich. It goes well with their famous limeade and mariquitas for an authentic Marin meal.
Michael’s Sourdough
South Marin is avocado toast country. North Marin is sandwich country. The divide is marked by the San Rafael location of Michael’s Sourdough, just off highway 101 over the hill from Larkspur in the industrial part of San Rafael. Open from early in the morning to 3 p.m., Michael’s exists to serve North Marin’s working-class populous. Their schedule reflects this with closure on weekends and holidays. I recommend the pastrami and turkey, but it is hard to go wrong with any sandwich served on Michael’s delicious, homemade sourdough bread. I cannot call Michael’s the best sandwich in Marin—it is in the midst of a fierce battle with Blue Barn for that title—but I can confidently call it one of the two best sandwiches in the world.
Taqueria San Jose
Hidden away under highway 101, taqueria San Jose is as good as it gets for Mexican food in San Rafael. The affordable, no-frills serves up authentic Mexican food complete with complimentary chips and a small salsa bar. There are other good Mexican places in Marin, but the experience at this one is the most authentic.
Lo Coco’s Pizza
Another Marin institution, Lo Coco’s is home to some of the county’s best pizza. Though it requires a bit of a drive from downtown San Rafael, Lo Coco’s is located in the heart of an area of Marin offering great hikes and access to nature. I recommend a slice of one of their delicious creations after a hike in Lucas Valley or on the drive back from a day in West Marin.
Monk’s Kettle
One of the hottest restaurants in Marin, Monk’s Kettle offers an experimental menu bursting with local flavors in a nicely designed Terra Linda atmosphere. The food is great, but don’t overlook their impressive list of local draught beers.
Mauna Loa Hawaiian BBQ
If you’ve already been to Sol Food and want something casual downtown, Mauna Loa is a good choice. With delicious Hawaiian food served in a small, casual restaurant, Mauna Loa is a off-the-beaten-path San Rafael classic. Their chicken katsu is one of the best meals in San Rafael and the portions are generous. It might not be a Marin health food destination, but the food is nonetheless delicious.
Silbermann’s Ice Cream
It requires a bit of a drive from downtown, but Silberman’s has the best ice cream in San Rafael. With a retro feel owing to its interior, Silberman’s makes its own ice cream with deliciously unique flavors and a homey vibe despite its placement in a strip mall. Beloved by locals, expect to see a line out the door.
Novato
Indian Valley and Mt. Burdell
Although I have another page with the best hikes in Marin, it is difficult not to at least mention two of the county’s best, most accessible open space areas: Indian Valley and Mt. Burdell. Indian Valley is a vast open area in Novato full of hiking and mountain biking trails. It is also home to the Novato Campus of the College of Marin and swimming pools, soccer fields, and softball fields open to the public. It is a popular place for runners, hikers, and horse riders alike and has a well maintained collection of beautiful trails. Mt. Burdell, on the other hand, has fewer options though still beautiful. The mountain (more of a hill) attracts hikers looking to enjoy Novato’s natural beauty and the view of the city from the summit. I recommend exploring Mt. Burdell in the spring when the grasses are green and wildflowers are in full bloom.
Stafford Lake
With beautiful hiking options, a peaceful lake, fishing, and both a golf and frisbee golf course, Stafford Lake is a good choice for outdoor adventure close to Novato. Though it might not be your best option for swimming, the lake is a great scenic retreat just a short drive away from downtown. It is also a nice first stop on a longer drive out to West Marin. To take full advantage of Stafford Lake, bring a picnic to enjoy with a view of the water before driving further out to Marin French cheese and West Marin.
Book Place
A subsidiary of the Marin County Library, Book Place is the best used bookstore in Marin and one of the best in the Bay Area. The humble storefront is easy to pass by at the end of Novato’s Grant Ave., but it is certainly worth a stop when in the area. The store offers an impressive collection of well organized used books ranging from classics to popular fiction and beyond. I never visit Book Place without walking out with multiple books. It may be small, but it certainly punches above its weight in terms of selection. And the best part: the price. The books are cheap. If I recall correctly, two dollars for a standard paperback. This is a fraction of what you will pay even at other used bookstores around Marin. One thing to note: Book Place is cash only, so come prepared.
Marin French Cheese
Proudly holding the title of the United States’ oldest continuously operating cheese shop, Marin French Cheese is a delicious destination hidden away in Western Novato. The shop produces a great selection of award-winning bries and camemberts and also houses other local cheeses and dairy products. Try their Strauss milk soft serve for a delicious summer treat, or just assemble a picnic of cheeses and wine to eat outside the beautiful pond on the property. The shop also makes fresh sandwiches every day featuring their cheeses and local ingredients. I recommend the Golden Gate washed-rind brie or the petite ash, but everything here is good.
Blue Barn
Jordan vs. Lebron, USA vs. USSR, Blue Barn vs. Michael’s Sourdough. Of all the world’s great rivalries, few are as intense as the one playing out between Novato’s two heavy-hitting sandwich shops battling for the title of the world’s best sandwich. You’ve already heard from Michael’s San Rafael location. Now, for Blue Barn. At a much higher price point than Michaels, this gourmet downtown shop is actually primarily a salad restaurant. Don’t be fooled by their branding. Their sandwiches, specifically the buffalo fry, are the reason people flood Blue Barn every day regardless of the prices. There is not much else to say. Blue Barn is one of the best restaurants in Marin, and though pricy, is absolutely worth it.
Michael’s Sourdough
Across the highway from Blue Barn and tucked away in an unassuming parking lot rests the sleeping giant of the California sandwich scene. Though not as flashy as places like Blue Barn and Ike’s, Michael’s punches well above its weight. The San Rafael location is good, but the Novato shop is great. Stop in for a turkey and pastrami sandwich for half the price of Blue Barn’s but just as good. The bread is fresh and delicious. They do not skimp on meat, and the lettuce and tomatoes are as fresh as they are tasty. The sandwiches are assembled right as you watch and you rarely need to wait long. Like the San Rafael location, the Novato Michael’s services the local working population. IT is open early but closes at 3 p.m. and is only open during the week.
Carmen’s La Hacienda Mexican Restraunt
Serving up the best Mexican food in the heart of Novato’s bustling downtown, La Hacienda offers a great atmosphere and better food. There are other locations around the bay area—the closest being in Fairfax—but the Novato location is the original and best. Servings are large and ingredients are fresh and authentic. It is hard to find fault with La Hacienda. I recommend their burritos but again you can’t go wrong.
Rustic Bakery
Another stalwart of the Marin County culinary scene, Rustic Bakery does everything right. A go-to for breakfast, lunch, and brunch, Rustic Bakery makes its bread and delectable pastries on sight. Everything here is good, but Rustic shines with its vast selection of freshly cooked pastries. Come early as more popular ones sell out. If you make the trip, I also recommend picking up some of their delicious granola.
Bocca Pizza
If you are in the mood for a nicer dining experience without breaking the bank, look no further than Bocca Pizzeria located in the heart of Novato’s charming Ignacio neighborhood. Bocca makes great pizza and offers a relaxing outdoor deck as well as a warm interior and nice wine list. Come for the pizza, but don’t overlook the grilled octopus as an appetizer.
Wide Open Road 