What is West Marin & The Marin Headlands
West Marin, the way I’m using it, refers to Marin County‘s coastline. There are several towns along the coast—the largest of them being Point Reyes—that also fall under this designation. This is the most beautiful part of Marin and provides the best Northern California experience close to San Francisco. West Marin offers a great blend of small seaside towns with beautiful ocean scenery, hikes, and sunsets. Though the weather is often colder than desirable for swimming in the already cold ocean, the area is beautiful during all seasons and does get warm enough for a dip during summer months.
The Marin Headlands are a photogenic stretch of coastline directly across the Golden Gate Bridge from San Francisco. Popular with tourists, car commercials, and movie crews, the headlands offers some of the best views in the Bay Area—if not the world. For history lovers, the Headlands offers a vast network of abandoned defense constructions from WWII and the cold war. For fans of flora and fauna, the Headlands is home to many thriving species and the famed Marine Mammal Center. For outdoors types, the Headlands are home to some of the best hikes in the Bay Area. There is something for everyone in the Headlands and the area is absolutely worth a stop.
West Marin
Stinson Beach
With inviting water, a beautiful mountain backdrop and a charming town, Stinson is the best beach in the bay area. The best time to visit, of course, are on warm summer days. Because of the close proximity to the ocean, the beach is often quite a bit colder than the rest of Marin. Still, it frequently cracks 70 during the summer. The water is cold but very swimmable on warm days and there is little fear of riptides or other dangerous currents. Though summer is the best time to visit for swimming, Stinson is beautiful all year round. The town itself is charming and offers a quaint combination of beachy and woodsy, and there are several hikes leaving from the beach. While you are there, be sure to stop by Parkside for a burger and ice cream.
The Ridge
Just a 25-minute drive from Stinson and 45 minutes from Fairfax or Mill Valley, the ridge is the most beautiful place in Marin and probably the world. It is a difficult place to describe. Essentially, the ridge is the part of Mt. Tamalpais closest to the coast while also elevated enough to provide a panoramic view. The ridge overlooks the ocean and in some places San Francisco, and is the best place to watch a sunset in the Bay Area. It is a little bit of a drive, but it is absolutely worth it. There are many spots along the ridge worth stopping, and I won’t give away my favorite for its own sake. That being said, drive along W Ridgecrest Blvd and you will find no shortage of great views. If someone asked me what is the one place everyone visiting the Bay Area should visit, I would say the ridge. I can also recommend picking up Sol Food from Mill Valley and brining it up for dinner with a view, or heading down to In-N-Out after the sunset for a late dinner with the rest of Marin.
Bolinas
A stone’s throw from Stinson, Bolinas is the surfing capital of Marin County. Rent a board at a local surf shop and head out in the morning to make the most of this small coastal town. When you are finished, get brunch at one of the many spots in town and head back to Stinson for a beach day. While you can swim at Bolinas’ beach, it is better for surfing and Stinson is more inviting for Swimming.
Point Reyes Station
Point Reyes Station is the largest town in West Marin. It has a charming feel and is more down to earth than the rest of Marin. With surf shops, great restaurants and cheese shops, and bookstores, it is easy to spend an afternoon discovering the coastal town. I can recommend a meal at Station House Cafe and a trip to Point Reyes books across the street, but I am sure no matter where you go you will find good food and friendly people. If you don’t want to spend long in Point Reyes, I would recommend stopping by Palace Market to pick up some local cheese and other snacks before heading out to one of the region’s many beaches.
Muir Beach
Call it West Marin, call it the Headlands, call it Mill Valley… who knows. No matter what subregion of Marin you want to include it in, Muir beach is beautiful and worth a visit. It is probably the easiet of Marin’s beaches to reach, although—and this is a common theme—it is not great for swimming. It teds to be a bit cooler than Stinson, but this doesn’t mean it isn’t still a great place to relax in the sun with a book. When you get tired of the sand, be sure to stop in at Pelican Inn just a short drive away. Seemingly picked up from the English countryside and dropped down on the California coast, Pelican Inn serves up classic pub fare and beer in a tranquil, fog-shrouded pub setting.
Drakes Beach
Speaking of beaches, Drakes Beach is one of the best options for a day trip from Point Reyes. Though it is almost always too cold here to swim, the beautiful beach and drive make up for the chilly weather. It is a much further drive than the other two beaches on this list, but if you feel like doing some exploring beyond just the destination it is a good place to visit.
Limantour Beach
One of the more beautiful beaches in Marin, Limantour is a nice compromise between Drakes beach and Stinson beach. It doesn’t draw Stinson’s crowds and does not require the drive to Drakes. That being said, it is not as good for swimming as Stinson. It can be a bit windy at times, but the endless sand and little inlets tucked away in the grasses make it a great place to spend an afternoon away from the crowds.
Shell Beach
Shell Beach is the most underrated beach in West Marin. It is not as vast as the others on this list, but it is often much warmer and is great for swimming. Why? It is not actually on the ocean. Shell beach is on Tomales Bay, and while it is not as beautiful as some of West Marin’s beaches, it is easily accessible from Point Reyes Station and a nice place to spend a few hours. It is worth noting that you cannot drive up to Shell Beach. It requires a twenty-or-so minute walk from a cul-de-sac where you can park.
Point Reyes Lighthouse
It is iconic. It is a tourist destination. It is out of the way. Still, it is probably worth the drive to Point Reyes Lighthouse. Beyond being a prime spot for Instagram photos, the lighthouse visitor’s center features a comprehensive museum of the region and its marine life. The lighthouse itself dates back to 1870 and, often shrouded in fog, feels like the end of the earth. If you are driving out to the lighthouse, consider combining it with Drakes Beach and the also iconic Cypress Tree Tunnel.
The Inkwells
The Inkwells are not a beach, but that doesn’t mean you won’t find it full of locals looking to cool off in the summer months. The Inkwells are not large and frankly not the best swimming experience Marin has to offer, but they do feature cool water close to Fairfax and a rock to jump off (and a bridge for the very daring few). Some say the water is infested with e. coli, but this does not stop hordes of swimmers from lining its rocks on hot summer days.
Samuel P. Taylor Camp Ground
Want a place to spend the night in Marin without breaking the bank? Samuel P. Taylor State Park might be your answer. Shrouded in the shade of Marin’s giant redwoods, Samuel P. Taylor offers a tranquil retreat between Fairfax and West Marin. Though it is a traditional campsite, plots are spread out enough to give a semblance of privacy. Make sure to reserve a campsite ahead of time as they do book up.
Hiking
There are amazing hiking trails all around West Marin. Some of the best are the hike from Stinson Beach to the top of Mt. Tamalpais and the Alamere Falls hike, but there are simply too many to list. I will make another page of my favorite hikes around Marin, but for now refer to apps like Alltrails for recommendations. The two I listed above and the lakes (Laugintas, Bon Tempe, etc.) are good starts, though.
The Headlands
Rodeo Beach
Perhaps the most iconic destination in the Headlands for Marin residents, Rodeo Beach and its black sand make a great stop in a Headlands day. One caveat, and you’ve heard it before: it is not the best for swimming. The currents can be strong, the water is cold, and it drops off quickly. Still, you can swim if you want. If you don’t, the views and atmosphere are enough to make it worthwhile.
Marine Mammal Center
Just up the hill from Rodeo Beach is one of my favorite spots in the Headlands: the Marine Mammal Center. This open rehabilitation center for injured marine mammals is a fascinating blend of informative and plain cool. There aren’t many other places where you can see seals, otters, and more close-up in a non-intrusive setting. The people here really care about the animals they are working with, and their success stories are inspiring. A visit is a good way to break up an otherwise purely outdoor day and is a change to learn about the wildlife inhabiting Marin’s beautiful coastline.
Kirby Cove
Kirby Cove is the best beach in Marin for views of the Golden Gate bridge. Again, not for swimming, but beautiful nonetheless. It requires a short 1.5 mile hike to reach the beach and another 1.5 miles back, but this is a small price to pay. Keep a lookout for the famous Kirby Cove swing when you visit, and also keep in mind that there are campsites available near the beach if you feel like waking up with a view.
Battery Mendell & Abandoned Military Sites
I won’t try to cover all the historic, former military sites in the Headlands because they are everywhere. The area serves as the gateway to the ever-important San Francisco bay, so it has been fortified each time the United States has found itself at war. Today, these fortifications lay abounded and prime for exploration. Battery Mendell (pictured above) is one of my favorites, but I recommend opening your eyes and Google Maps and driving around for a little while from place to place.
Battery Spencer Viewpoint
This is not really a place I would recommend. It is crowded and by no means the only place in the Headlands with a good view of the Golden Gate bridge. Still, if you want the iconic bridge shot, this is the place to get it. One word of advice: go in the middle of the day. The traffic gets very bad close to sunset, and you don’t want to get stuck in the never-ending snake of cars searching for parking.
Wide Open Road 