What is Karakol?
Karkol is the fourth largest city in Kyrgyzstan and is a hot spot for outdoor sports. Surrounded by mountains, the city is an ideal location for skiing (both resort and back country) as well as hiking and horseback riding. Though the city itself does not offer that much in terms of sight seeing, it is still rich with culture. It has a very different feel than Bishkek and is much smaller and easier to navigate on foot. The city is also home to a large Dungan population (ethnically Chinese muslim people living in Central Asia).
The city is easily reachable via marshrutka from Bishkek. The ride takes six hours and is quite scening in parts with views of lake Issyk-Kul. At least a third of the ride is on unpaved road, so if you are prone to car sickness it may be a good idea to prepare.
Altyn-Arashan, just a few miles from Karakol, should arguably be included here. I’ve decided to write about them separately, but be sure not to miss the nature reserve while you are in the area. Also, check out my Altyn-Arashan guide here.
Disclaimer: I am writing this about my experience in Karakol, but Destination Karakol has a far more exhaustive guide to the city than I could ever assemble. I highly recommend checking out their page and stopping by their office in the center of the city. I am in no way affiliated with them, I just thought they did a great job.
Where to stay in Karakol?
Otel Issyk-Kul
A soviet-era building and historical landmark, Otel Issyk-Kul is unlike any hotel I have ever stayed in. Objectively, it is not a very nice hotel. The bathrooms could use a remodel, the bedding is rudimentary, and the showers are inconsistent. This all is ok when a private room with a double bed and private bathroom costs eight dollars a night. After traveling for an extended period of time, I would take an imperfect private room over even the nicest hostel. Also, private rooms are far from the only thing this place has going for it. The two receptionists are lovely people, even if their English is limited to zero. The building itself is unique, an the hallways and lobby are decorated with bright colors and have a distinctly Soviet quality that is hard to articulate. I would absolutely go back here even if money is no object. Here is their Booking page.
What to do in Karakol?
Dungan Cooking Class
The highlight of my time in Karakol was the Dungan Cooking Class arranged through Destination Karakol. At just 1,600 som per person, the three-hour class with a friendly teacher fluent in English was worth every penny. We learned the ins and outs of preparing Lagman, from hand-pulling the noodles to making the sauce. We also learned a lot about the Dungan people and their culture and cusine. It is difficult to give this experience high enough praise. The end result was delicious, and with a group of just three people there was plenty of time to ask questions and really learn how to prepare Lagman. The recipe is one of the best souvenirs I have from Central Asia so far.
Karakol Historical Museum & Ella Maillart Photo Hall
This museum will not appear on any lists of the world’s greatest, but it is a nice place to spend an hour or so in the city center. There is a good exhibit of taxidermied animals, but the real attraction is the photography exhibit. There is a hall dedicated to the photography of Ella Maillart, a Swiss writer, traveler, sportswoman, and photographer. She visited Central Asia in the early 1900s, taking photos as she adventured through, mainly, Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan. The exhibit is absolutely worth checking out if you have some extra time in Karakol.
Karakol Big Bazaar
No matter where you are in Central Asia, bazaars are always a good idea. This one is unique in its layout. Instead of featuring a large inside hall, the Karakol bazaar is a maze of tight alleys like the one pictured above. There is still a food area and clothing area, but even the food area follows a maze-like layout. It is not the most Instagramable bazaar, but it offers a unique experience in Karakol.
Holy Trinity Cathedral & Dungan Mosque
Without a doubt the two most interesting buildings in Karakol, both are worth some time. There is not a lot to see at either, but the buildings are interesting. Be sure to learn the context of the Dungan people—maybe visit the mosque after the cooking class—as without it the mosque just looks like a Chinese temple in the middle of Karkaol. Be sure to also go inside Trinity Cathedral. The outside is beautiful with its wood paneling and golden top, but the inside is also quite interesting.
Where to Eat in Karakol
Ashlan-Fu Alley
Probably Kyrgyzstan’s second-best dish after Lagman (also a Dungan staple), Ashlan-Fu is a delicious, vinegary noodle soup. It is an important part of Karakol’s cuisine, and the best place to try it is tucked away in an alley of the small bazar. Here is the Google Maps link to make it easier to find. There are at least ten little shops serving ashlan-fu inside the alley, and I would imagine that all are good. Choose the one that looks best to you and ask for ashlan-fu and a potato piroshki to go with it.
The Hut Bar
It is not a place to eat, but a night in Karakol would be incomplete without a stop at The Hut. The bar is located in the city central, and though drinks are a little more expensive than in other establishments, it is a great place to meet other foreigners. The owner also speaks fluent English and German and is happy to advise patrons on the Kyrgyzstan adventure. The bar also offers a great classic rock playlist and a dart board. We visited in the offseason and found it fairly empty (though still a good time), but I would imagine that it gets going in the summer and winter months.
Аш-лянфу Кафе
Though unassuming, this little restaurant is a great place for a good, cheap meal. It is centrally located here and offers good food and good service—what more could you want? It’s menu also features ashlan-fu, though I would recommend saving it for the alley for a more authentic experience.
Kaynar Cafe
Another unassuming pick, Kaynar Cafe makes this list because the food is good and the prices are low. It won’t blow you away, but if you want a place to eat in Karakol, this is a good choice. I would specifically recommend their poutine-like dish of meat and sauce over french fries, though I cannot remember the name.
Wide Open Road 